2-Apr Machu Picchu

I woke up at 4:30 a.m. to catch the bus up to Machu Picchu.  Normally I would walk up, but I was told that it is better to spend energy enjoying Machu Picchu which has lots of steps, than on the 3 hour hike up.  As recommended by Paolo, I purchased entrance tickets for 2 days (very expnsive at $45 USD and 2 days of bus one way (expensive).  I now regret this is as one day is sufficient and I am feeling a little bit over-ruined.  Afterall, I am on day 5 of touring the ruins.

I purchased the $8USD bus ticket and waited in line in the pouring rain.  My lightweight rain gear was no match for the down spout, so I purchased a poncho $2 for added protection for me and my backpack.  The hoards of tourists looked silly in the pastel multi-colored ponchos.  Almost like we were about to go for an easter egg hunt on the terraces of Machu Picchu in the rain.

At first glance Machu Picchu is every bit as breathtaking as the photos suggest.  You have a few minutes to snap photos after the gates open before the area is saturated with tourists.  I elected for a guide in Spanish because the English speaking guides had large groups mainly composed of European youth.  While I only caught about 60% of what the guide said (he spoke way fast), I liked our group of 4. 


Modelling the silly poncho, blue of course

My guia, Miguel, holding the flag of Cusco

We had a cursory tour of the key areas.  I had trouble keeping my eyes open. My guide, sensing this, offered me some chew which I gratefully accepted.  With a wad of green leaves inside my cheek, I began to feel a little more alert.  I got a permit to hike up Wayna Picchu, and did so after the tour ended.  Most people I talked to said it wasn´t worth the effort and they were right.  The 200 permits issued created lots of traffic on the narrow stairs and my patience was exhausted.  It was very foggy and humid and I sweated my way to the top.  There wasnt much of a view, but it was a pretty hike up. 

I was hoping for a mystical Celestine Prophecy type experience, but there were too many tourists everywhere.  Maybe tomorrow I will hike up the other peak (Machu Picchu) early in the morning, which only a few people do.

I decided to save the $8 and hike down into town.  I was happy I did because the prevailing biome is similar to cloudcap forest/jungle.  There were tons of exotic plants and flowers including bromeliads, orchids and even impatiens.  Yes mom, I finally figured out where wild impatiens come from. I walked past a botanical garden and butterfly garden- places that Id rather spend time tomorrow than in the ruins.  I guess that would be the biologist in me talking.

Pretty flowers

Bromeliad

Aguas Calientes and raging river

After a 3 hour nap, I tried to return my entrance ticket, but they wouldnt let me sell it back or transfer it to someone else.  Those bastards!  Peru is rife with these types of logistical challenges and it is hard for me to roll with it most of the time.  I still have limited capacity to deal with stress - charming residuals from my last job.  I think I could use an adrenal gland transplant.

After getting in a pissing match with the powers that be, I went to the hot springs.  There was no hot water in my hostal and I was slimey from hiking in the humid, warm jungle, so I had no choice.  I spent a relaxing hour soaking and talking with some vacationing portenos.  I now have some good recommendations for parillas for when I return to BA.  In this part of Peru, you get accosted on the streets with people trying to sell you stuff.  Mostly, I get asked if Id like a massage.  I keep wondering if this is a hint or something.  Certainly, I could afford the $20 USD for an hour and a half.  Something to think about.

I went back to the same restaurant, Indio Feliz (Happy Indian) for another good meal and was sound asleep by 9:00.