Teeth

Teeth

Thursday, July 28, 2011

July 21-27: Humboldt County

Lily pads in a lagoon
Text later
Carnivorous Darlingtonia californica pitcher plants
Gardian of the Klamath River bridge

Monday, July 25, 2011

July 18: The Tooth

What a long, yet successful, day!

My friend Preston and I set out today with 2 goals in mind: 1.) to climb an easy peak at Snoqualmie Pass called The Tooth (4 pitches of easy rock) and 2.) to rent a U-haul and move all of my belongings out of a storage unit in Seattle down to Portland.  The day progressed as follows:

3:40 a.m.:  Alarm goes off.  I drag myself out of bed half hoping that it is raining so that I can have a reprieve and go back to sleep.

4:00 a.m.: Depart Portland with coffee cup in hand and drive north.

7:30 a.m.: Arrive Snoqualmie Pass

8:00 a.m.:  Start hiking the trail in to The Tooth
We started hiking in heavy fog, but since it had rained for 3 days straight, we were antsy to give it a try.  Within an hour, we encountered snow.  We were glad we had decided to bring boots, crampons and ice axes.  We agreed to hike up to Pineapple Pass and re-evaluate conditions from there.  We didn't think we'd be able to see or that the rock would be dry.  Nonetheless, we pushed on.  We were thankful for a somewhat melted out or washed out boot pack or we would have had difficulty picking out the correct coulior to ascend.  Luckily we ascended above the fog.

The Tooth peaking out of the morning fog

Preston on the approach: don't ask me why, but I can't figure out how to right this pic
Seeing no reason to turn back, we headed up to the right hand side of Pineapple Pass up a small finger of snow.  We crossed a sizeable moat and scrambled laterally and upward to the pass proper.  From here, it took some minor route finding across narrow snow bridges and up 4th class rock to get to the base of the route somewhere around 11:00 a.m.  We roped up.  We had agreed beforehand that we would take a skinny 70M rope, double it over, and simul climb with Preston in the lead.  I have not climbed much rock lately and it seemed that it would be a much faster proposition with Preston on the sharp end.

Preston took a more direct route than the normal 5.4 rock route.  It was just enough to keep our attention, but nothing scary.  He remarked that it is the first time on an alpine climb that he had run out of gear before running out of slings and had to stop and belay me.  

Summit self portrait
On the summit: thought I had corrected the helmet fit issue I had been having.

The view from the summit was spectacular.  Only surrounding peaks, Ranier, and Glacier peaks showed above the fog.  Being ever efficient, I rigged the rappels.  We rapped 4 times back to the notch and I noted a 1.5 hour round trip to the summit- not bad!.  We put our boots back on and did 2 more raps down the gully to the snow field below, one of which was somewhat technical owing to a moat that formed as the snow melted away from the mountain.  The snow had softened significantly since our hike up and we were able to ski on our heels and plunge step down.  We reached our cars at 2:30 p.m.  Not a record time, but then again, we weren't hurrying.

3:00 p.m. Drive to Seattle

4:00 p.m. rent a U-Hual.  This seemed challenging.  We were tired and the U-Hual people seemed, well, not-so-bright.  They didn't have the van I reserved, so they gave me a 10' truck for the same price.  We drove over to my storage unit without ever hitting I-5.  The advantage of having a truck is that everything fit without futzing.  With 2 dollies and my neatly packed 5x8' unit, we cleared and loaded everything within an hour.  The unit is located next to a Tully's coffee and below I-5 in the southern end of Seattle.  Since we did not observe any traffic, one ice coffee later we were on the road.

9:00 p.m.: Back in Portland
We reached Portland without incident and there was even parking in front of Preston's house- a rarity!  Even better, Melissa (Preston's fiance) had dinner ready when we walked in the door.  Like I said, a successful, yet long, day!

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

July 7-10: Mount Ranier National Park

I felt this strong desire to escape the city.  Couch surfing on the road is just grand, but while on a long term stay it loses it's charm.  Like the old saying goes: after 3 days, guests are like dead fish, they both start to smell.  Trying to avoid this, and feeling the need to roam, I drove first to Seattle to exchange a few things at my storage unit and next to Mt Ranier National Park (MoRa in Park Service speak).

While tanking up at a gas station in Portland, I learned from the attendant that the tags on my car had expired on June 30.  Shit!  Damn!  I fretted over this the entire way to Seattle.  I don't even have an address!  From the coffee shop next to my storage unit, I did web research on the Alaska DMV.  They don't even have a phone number, just e-inquiries.  Thankful, someone responded within 30 minutes, for I did not want to go away for the weekend without having this resolved.  $177 dollars later and the new tags were being shipped to a friend's house in Portland.  BIG relief!  I don't usually screw stuff like this up, but since the post office will not forward DMV info, it is easy to see why I had forgotten.  Now I will be an Alaskan living abroad for the next 2 years.  The downsides I foresee are not be able to vote locally or procure a library card plus a constant threat of jury duty in Alaska.
The view on the drive in of Mt Ranier

With the ugly business squared away, I headed for the Park.  I reached Cougar Flat campground at dusk, quickly set up camp, cooked a dinner of wheat free pasta, chicken sausage, spinach, and parmesan cheese and relaxed with some wine.  I slept exceptionally well in the cool weather.  I had arrived in the Park with some lofty goals of climbing in the Tatoosh Range solo, but the amount of snow thwarted the possibilities.  I was told by the rangers that certain peaks would be real route finders owing to the snow.  Since I didn't have a map and no one really knew where I was, I decided to stick to moderate objectives.  After gathering info, I did a recon of Castle and Pinnacle peaks.  There was snow right out of the parking lot!  I soon donned crampons and ice axe and trudged up to the saddle in incoming weather.  Again, no one knew where I was, so I thought better of pressing on in what could soon be white out conditions.  I returned to camp and went on another hike up to some falls along the Wonderland Trail.  This was snow free being at lower elevation.  I ran into some old friends who were doing a Mazama climb on Saturday.  So, that evening, I ate dinner in their company and also met some newer generation Mazamas who were also doing that climb.
Handsome grey fox along the side of the road
On Saturday, I decided to get some exercise and hiked up to Camp Muir from Paradise.  Paradise was covered in snow- no flowers in July!  The hike is about 5000' feet of elevation gain.  It was still the slog I remembered but it much easier without a 50+ pound backpack.  I longed to climb the peak and had even briefly entertained a solo venture but it seemed like too much effort to be bothered for a wimpy route.  I plodded up to Camp Muir in 3.5 hours.  Not a record breaking time, but respectable.  I moved at a continuous pace pausing only to watch skiiers come down the glacier with envy.  Why hadn't I taken my skis out of the storage unit?  The direct sun on the snow felt like being in an oven.  I was thankful that I brought my white button down "glacier" shirt to shade me.  After a few minutes at Muir I bombed down the mountain in 1.5 hours (good speed!) without ever glissading.

There was a potluck in the campground hosted by the Mazama group.  What great contributions there were!  I cobbled together some chips, mini carrots, and tofu pate, but others had made Morrocan stew, 3 different quinoa salads, desserts and more.  How great is that!
View on the way to the Camp Muir

The next day, I went with a subset of the Mazama group to climb Castle Peak.  I led the charge up the approach to the saddle of the mountain having just pioneered a route through the snow days before.  We walked at a casual speed, no one was in a hurry, though we needed to be back in the parking lot by 2:30 and we hadn't began until 9:30 or 10:00.  We made our way over the saddle then upward on a snow finger on the back side.  We scrambled up some rocks on the ridge to appreciate the view while 2 of the guys found the remaining rock pitch to the summit.  All 7 people roped up and climbed to the top then rapped off.  Car to car in 4.5 hours.  Super fun and great to catch up with old friends M&M (one of my climbing instructors when I was a beginner) and Griff as well as meet new folks.
With M&M- my original climbing mentor


Ranier under partly cloudy skies

Thursday, June 30, 2011

June 27: Rocky Mountain National Park

Text to be added later.
View on the hike to Fern Lake
The park supports 3 sizable elk herds
Ominous dark clouds suggest I should pass thru this area quickly

Clouds mirrored in a beaver pond

June 26: Rocky Mountain National Park

Text to be added later.


I never get sick of watching bears at a comfortable distance
This fine specimen of a cinnamon-colored black bear could care less about his human observers

Visitors in my camp site

In the absence of actually owning a map, I now take photos of the topos.  This gem was at the trailhead.

Lovely Emerald Lake

Sunday, June 26, 2011

June 25: Maroon Bells

Wildflowers around camp

Text to follow later
The hike started with a river crossing
Aspen grove along the trail

View of collegiate peaks area
Couldn't resist this sign
Maroon Bells
Pika: good to see a healthy pika after being out of the country for so long

June 24: Birthday Blues

Text to follow

View from Independence Pass 12,095

Aspens

Thursday, June 23, 2011

June 22-23: Boulder, CO

For many year I wanted to live in Boulder, but had never been there.  I just new I would love it.  So, it was with some trepidation that I approached the city on my first visit.  I have been grappeling with the decision of what to do next career-wise.  The hiccup seems to be that I have become specialized in salmon and I love being in the mountains, yet the two don't co-exist much in the lower 48.  With this in mind, I was worried that Boulder would steel my heart... and rightly so.  Situated just below the Flatirons or Rockies front range only 45 minutes from Denver and being a vibrant progressive pocket, as I feared, I could find little not to love.

The scenery is dramatic.  I love the way the Flatirons rise upward in a great wave like swoop from the flat grasslands.  I love the proximity to the mountains.  I love the vibrancy, the sense of community, the restaurants, and much, much more.

View of Boulder and the front range from Chataqua Park
The first Flatirons
I met my dear friend Lorraine for lunch at "The Med".  Lorraine moved out of Alaska a few months before I did and it was so great to reconnect!  I was planning on camping for the evening to enjoy some much needed space, but Lorraine offered me a room at her place (actually her partner Tim's place) which was too good to pass up.  I didn't realize how much I missed having quality "girlfriend" time.

One of the pleasures of my trip across the US has been spending time rekindling relationships with family and friends.  I feel blessed to have so many great people in my life and so many who bent over backwards to take me in.

After lunch, Lorraine showed me downtown Boulder.  We strolled along Pearl St and there I saw all my favorite retailers.  I went to a used bookstore and exchanged my audiobooks for new ones to keep me company on the drive to Oregon.

At Lorraine's, Recommendation, I hiked in Chataqua park.  It is a free public park in Boulder that encompasses the first Flatirons.  I only had 50 minutes to hike, but I was enraptured.  It is by far the coolest park of any city I have ever been in.

I met my friend Brett, whom I met in Torres del paine, Chile, and his girlfriend Jennifer at the farmer's market. Later we sat on the grass in front of the courthouse and listened to live music on Pearl St.  I am in love!  With Boulder, that is.  If only I could support myself here, I think I could live happily ever after.
View of the Rockies from the First Flatiron
I went back to Lorraine's and we had another nice visit over a bottle of wine; sleep came easily and heavily that night.

In the morning, Lorraine and lazed around with good coffee and good conversation.  Eventually I headed back to Chataqua Park to finish the hike I started the day before.  It felt so good to be close to the mountains again.  I felt the endorphins wash away all the stresses that had been mounting concerning my future and the mountain energy cleared my mind of all but the most positive of thoughts.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

June 21: Solstice in the Garden of the Gods

I woke up completely flummoxed in Leith's soul-less subrban home in Aurora, CO.  He had already left for work and I set about doing laundry, organizing my gear, and hatching a plan for the day.  I studied the maps and tried to figure out a good plan.  The problem was that I am staying in the burbs west of Denver and slightly south which means any foray into the mountain required a cross city haul which contained more mental obstacles than I could mentally handle.  There were so many options.  This is when I would like to have something as cut and dry as a Lonely Planet guide list of star attractions or a traveling companion to take over the reigns as decision maker. I felt road weary for some reason or another.  Finally, I settled on Garden of the Gods.  Pleased with my plans, I quickly retrieved my clean clothes from  the dryer, folded them neatly and then packed essentials for the day.

It was an uneventful drive and fairly easy to navigate out using my iPhone's GPS.  The Garden itself is a free public park and is lovely despite being overrun with tourists.  I continued on to Manitou and inquired at the Chamber of Commerce as to what would be a quiet hike.  I would like to have scaled nearby Pike's Peak, but that was a two-day commitment and driving to the summit was against my value system. They recommended a nice hike with some elevation gain which was nice despite the heat.

View from the visitor's center
Garden of the Gods
Cactus in bloom

I returned to Aurora that evening.  Leith and I had taken post baccalaureate bio and chem classes about 15 years ago.  He is a military officer stationed near Denver, but his recent relocation here combined with job demands and his location in suburbia have left him without many friends nor the gumption to explore the Rockies wonderland.  He seems very happy to host me and has used it as an excuse for some much needed R and R from his routine.

I decided to spend Wed and Thurs exploring Boulder and visiting friends which also helps me to escape suburbia which I seem to be having a powerful reaction to. The plan is to go to Maroon Bells for the weekend afterwards, followed by a solo foray into Rocky Mountain National Park and continuing westward from there.

On the road again: Iowa and Nebraska

After Father's Day brunch, I hugged my dad and aunt goodbye and shoved off.  I am so glad that I made the trip to Chicago.  It gave me a chance to spend quality time with my aunt whom I rarely see except in large family special occasions.  As Debra put it, it was a 'special' visit and I am thankful for it.

Though there was quite a bit of traffic for a Sunday, the miles passed easily.  I listened to Alex and Me, an audiobook given to me from my dear friend Lorraine.  My first night's destination was to be Madison County, Iowa roughly 325 miles west.  yes, that Madison County.  I figured I'd sleep under a covered bridge and have breakfast in the Winterset cafe.

I reached the Winterset turn off around 5:30.  I wasn't really tired and it was over 90 and humid.  I grappelled with the decision to spend the night or push on.  What was I going to do with myself for the 5 hours until I fell asleep?  How would I endure the heat and humidity?  On the other hand, I read the book and saw the movie and when else would I have a chance to go see Madison County?

I made the turn and drove the 22 miles to the campground.  The campground was mainly populated by yahoos in RVs.  There was a copperhead snake sunning himself in the road in the campground.  I'm not a snake fan.  Then I noticed that there was no cell service.  I decided to push on.

There was a campground just northeast of Omaha next to a wildlife refuge near the Missouri River.  I figured I could get up early and take a walk and admire the birds.  After a few wrong turns and a few country roads, I righted myself on route 80.  I was burning daylight.  I arrived at the little access road to the campground around 8:30 pm only to find it closed.  Oh no!  What to do?  I quickly pulled over and studied the maps for other campgrounds nearby and there was one just west of Omaha.  I went to take the direct route to Omaha and it too was closed, due to flooding.  Damn, damn, damn!  I turned around and retraced the 17 miles back to route 80.  No sooner had I turned around when my gas light went on.  Damn, damn, damn.  It was getting dark and I had no place to sleep and no gas.

I made it back to route 80 slowly to conserve gas.  Luckily for me, I caught a break.  The first exit on route 80 had a gas station and a camping sign.  I inquired about the campground in the gas station and found out it was nice and family oriented.  Big sigh of relief!

I pulled in to Arrowhead Lake campground around 9:00 ish and with a flurry of activity managed to get camp set up before nightfall.  It was a humid little valley with mosquitoes and I was camped amongst RVs but at least they were families.  I would later learn that these people had to evacuate their homes and were there for 2 weeks.  I would also learn that this is the only campground open for miles.  I noticed thunderheads in the distance and knew that I would be putting my new tent to the test.  I had the foresight to bring an umbrella and rain jacket into the tent.  Thunder came and the dog in the RV barked and barked.  Can't I catch a break?  I put ear plugs in and fell asleep only to be wakened by a heavy thunderstorm overhead.  It's been a while since I have been in a thunderstorm.  Was it safe to camp in a field?  I didn't know and was too tired to reason it out so I climbed in my car.  I slept only to be awakened by the next squall.  I slept off and on like this until 8:30 when I packed up my wet tent (dry on the inside!), took a hot shower (hooray!), and hit the road. 

I stopped in Lincoln, NE to resupply.  I found a cracker barrel and went in to rent an audiobook since I had just finished A Thousand Splendid Suns and had none left.  I got back on the road and noticed it had gotten windy with gusts up to 40.  The Yakima Rack on top of my car is like a sail, so I had to hold on to the wheel with 2 hands at all times.  Not the relaxing drive that I hoped for, but I prayed for nothing worse.  I knew that more thundershowers were forecast.  My next stop was a rest area.  I checked the weather and severe storms with damaging hail and high winds were forecast.  Shit.  I pushed on trying to beat them at one point they were closing in on me.  I kept going eyeballing potential places to pullover in case necessary, but there aren't a lot of exits from rte  80 in NE.  I essentially made a decision every time I passed a rest area to push on.  At one point the eye of the storm was only a few miles away or at least it seemed that way but it's tough to tell because NE is so flat.

In the end, I managed to avoid the eye of the storm and made it safely into Colorado.  I arrived at my friend Leith's house in soul-less suburbia outside of Denver around 11 hours after I left camp.

Friday, June 17, 2011

15-18 June: Chicago, My Kinda Town

We arrived at Debra's house mid morning Wednesday in heavy rains.


In Millenium Park

Art Institute

Public art installation.  I like how the metal sculpture reflects the sky on top and the people below
With Roberto Bila

Buildings, including the new Trump Tower, loom over the river