Apr 8-10 La Paz

The Lonely Planet guide book says La Paz is dizzying in every aspect from the altitude (3800m) to the narrow, windy streets.  The book is right. 

I arrived on Friday eve and was happy that the bus deposited me 7 blocks from my hostel rather than in the terminal.  There are people everywhere.  Most seem to be selling something.  My neighborhood is near the centro.  There are narrow streets with people selling their wares- everything from fruit, potatoes, flowers, and textiles to shaving cream, batteries and even toilet paper.  The majority of the vendors are Quechuan women.  They are portly and wear brightly colored wraps with silly black bowler hats that seem to defy gravity the way they are perched on top of their heads.  Because the streets are so crowded, I have been taking extra precautions with personal items and money, more so than in other cities.  EVen the locals will tell you to be aware of pickpockets.  The guide book warns against spitters too.  This is when someone spits on you to distract you then steals your stuff as you try to wipe off, often perpetrated by a young girl or elder.  I have not encountered this.  The other scams here are fake police and fake taxis.

Colorful people and produce in the open air market

Vibrant flowers and lots of gladiolas (my dad would say these remind him of funerals)

I  arrived and immediately began talking to the tour companies looking for treks and climbing opportunities.  The problem is that no one else seems to be interested in the things that I am at this time, so I would have to bare a high cost.  The transportation often costs more than the guide.  My hostal is fancier than I am used to.  At 100 Bs, it is expensive by Bolivian standards, but paying $14.35 USD for my own room and own bathroom is worth the splurge.   I also have cable TV for the first time in months. Feeling tired from travels and the intensity of the city, I have been lazier than usual and have been enjoying the movies on TV.  It has been a while since I have watched TV and I have to admit, I am enjoying the down time.

Government building and plaza with more pigeons than I have ever seen

 On Saturday, I walked around my neighborhood then explored the other side of the valley a little bit.  I did not see many white faces over there.  I walked through the museum district, but could only bring myself to enter one of them- I am feeling a little museumed and churched out at this point. The museum of Etnografia y Folklore was nicely laid out and my favorite part was the masks from indigenous ceremonies.  Beyond that, I stopped finding the clay pots interesting 2 museums ago.  I guess that is one of the hazards of travelling for a long time. 

Mask at museum of Etnografía y Folklore

After the museum, I went to a local restaurant in my neighborhood recommended by a friend where I sat on the balcony.  I enjoyed some music wafting up from the street below of pan flute and drums while I ate.  In the afternoon, I took a taxi to Killi Killi mirador with my French friends, Trine and Lyn.

Arch at the Killi Killi mirador

Aerial view of part of the city including futból stadium from Killi Killi

Its safer to fly than to walk

Again, I got stuck in front of cable TV (reminded me why I never pay for cable) and lacked energy to make trekking plans.  On a positive note, my appetite has returned and I treated myself to llama steak dinner with soup and salad bar (always taking care to avoid the lettuce) for $7

Today, I went to check out the Sopacachi neighborhood.  It was sunny and clear for a change and Illimani and Huayna Potosi were visible above the city.  To get to Sopacachi, I walked through outdoor markets selling everything from potatoes to llama fetuses.  My neaighborhood is always entertaining.  Surprisingly, Sopacachi was very calm, gentile, and felt safe.  I sat down with a capaccino in one of the plazas and watched the world walk by. I wandered thru the streets and found a really nice Thai restaurant.  Yummy.  I took the direct line back to my hostal up the main city artery, but it was National Kids Day and there was a street fair with people everywhere.  I clutched my purse tightly and felt my senses sharpen.  I relaxed when I took the left turn up Sagarnatha and entered my barrio.  Again, I took a siesta with cable tv.  I peeled myself away from Goldfinger in time to book a 3-day trek for tomorrow to Choro ($83.59 USD including food, guide, transport).  It was the only one leaving and I need a break from the city.  I will be back on Wed night.

Illimani and Huayna Potosi emerge over a multitude of power lines.  AT first I thought there were electric buses here, but it turns out that there is just a ton of power lines.

A very sedate plaza in the Sopocachi neighborhood

I now have a rough sketch of a plan for my time in Bolivia.  After I return from Choro trek, I will do the Condoriri trek to Huayna Potosi base camp, climb Huayna Potosi (hopefully by the French route), then head south a little. I am still contemplating a rainforest tour to Madidi, but I think its expensive and I may need malaria meds. I will do a trek or tour in Uyuni on my way back to Argentina.