I didn´t realize that I was going to have quite the level of journey that I did. It involved a 3:30 am wake up to catch a train to the border town of Villazon. I met a solo Israeli woman on the tracks and she and I joined forces for the journey. It is always easier to have 2 people for traveling.
From Villazon, we walked 1 km to the border. It took about 5 min to check out of Bolivia but an hour and a half to enter Argentina. We took a taxi to the bus terminal, took 2 buses - one to Jujuy and a connection to Salta, then another taxi. Exhausting. And I lost an hour in Argentina.
Teeth
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Apr 29 Tupiza
Tupiza resembles the American Wild West. It set amid a stunning backdrop of rainbow colored rocks, hills, mountains, and canyons of the Cordillera de Chichas at 2950m. It was an apt setting for the demise of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid. The Lonely Planet guide says ¨if ever there´s a place where you want to throw your leg over a horse, brandish spurs and say, ¨ride ém cowboy¨, this is it. I must admit that horse back riding was tempting and inexpensive, but I still have vivid memories of my last horseback riding endeavor in Petrolia which involved the horse getting into a yellow jacket´s nest.
Instead, I spent a leisurely morning eating a stellar breakfast (included), catching up on news, planning travel logistics and dropping off laundry which is way cheaper in Bolivia. I got a trail map from a tour agency and went out to hike through some of the canyons. I never did find the right trail, but rather a maze of 4wd tracks and dry river beds. I didn´t care much because the scenery was amazing, slightly remeniscent of Sedona without the glitz and the pricetag, and I was completely alone. I carefully marked my way at every junction and looked back frequently to ID landmarks so as not to get lost.
I returned to town and hung out by the pool in the hostel reading the LP guide. I tried to go out for another walk late in the day, but the wind was too strong blowing dust in my eyes.
I tried updating my blog but the internet was way too slow.
Instead, I spent a leisurely morning eating a stellar breakfast (included), catching up on news, planning travel logistics and dropping off laundry which is way cheaper in Bolivia. I got a trail map from a tour agency and went out to hike through some of the canyons. I never did find the right trail, but rather a maze of 4wd tracks and dry river beds. I didn´t care much because the scenery was amazing, slightly remeniscent of Sedona without the glitz and the pricetag, and I was completely alone. I carefully marked my way at every junction and looked back frequently to ID landmarks so as not to get lost.
I returned to town and hung out by the pool in the hostel reading the LP guide. I tried to go out for another walk late in the day, but the wind was too strong blowing dust in my eyes.
I tried updating my blog but the internet was way too slow.
Apr 28 Southwest Circuit day IV
5:00 a.m. wake up
5:30 a.m. departure; drive to the Salar de Uyuni (salt flat)
6:00 a.m. Hotel of Salt
We drove through standing water over the salt flat to arrive at the Salt Hotel, which is actually a museum made of salt bricks. We wandered around outside watching the sun rise over the salt flat. It was extremely cold, even for me, though I was better prepared than anyone else out there. Isabel had only her little sandals and tights and she must have been freezing as she prepared our breakfast of pancakes inside the cold museum.
I was immediately struck by the human impact on the salar. there were tire tracks as far as the eye could see in every direction. I felt profoundly sad. In the US, there would be one road in and out and this sort of trampling would be regulated. Nonetheless, it was a dramatic landscape that resembled the frozen tundra in northern AK.
8:30 a.m.: photo fun on the salar
The sun warmed things up a bit and we drove to a more remote spot for photo opportunities. We engaged in all sorts of silliness and even danced along with Isabel. My word of the day is ´trensas´which are braids. Isabel braided my hair in the traditional Quechuan way. I played along. I was disappointed that the natural hexagonal shapes in the salt flats were not visible because it is too early in the season. Photos I have seen are jaw dropping.
10:15 a.m. Salt mounds
We visited the area where salt is mined. They use shovels to pile it in small mounds which have a surreal appearance.
11:00 a.m.: Back to Uyuni to say our goodbyes and eat another yummy lunch.
12:00 a.m.: The road trip back to Tupiza
Since I am southbound, I caught a ride back to Tupiza with the driver, Isabel, and the owner of the company. As part of Fidel´s tip, I bought him an aux cable to plug ipods into his radio. All of the tourists have iPods. Fidel only has 8 songs he played over and over. I played DJ for the 5 hour dusty drive. I mainly played world music, but for the last 45 minutes I gave a US music history lesson beginning with Loius Armstrong. They hated Johnny Cash and John Denver and didnt care for Mrs Robinson. I was about to give up when I tried Jessica and they loved the Allman Brothers. We played it twice!
5:00 pm: Tupiza
I checked into my hostel and checked email. I went to an LP recommended restaurant and ran into 3 people from my pampas tour. I spent the remainder of the evening watching American movies dubbed into Spanish on my cable TV.
5:30 a.m. departure; drive to the Salar de Uyuni (salt flat)
6:00 a.m. Hotel of Salt
We drove through standing water over the salt flat to arrive at the Salt Hotel, which is actually a museum made of salt bricks. We wandered around outside watching the sun rise over the salt flat. It was extremely cold, even for me, though I was better prepared than anyone else out there. Isabel had only her little sandals and tights and she must have been freezing as she prepared our breakfast of pancakes inside the cold museum.
I was immediately struck by the human impact on the salar. there were tire tracks as far as the eye could see in every direction. I felt profoundly sad. In the US, there would be one road in and out and this sort of trampling would be regulated. Nonetheless, it was a dramatic landscape that resembled the frozen tundra in northern AK.
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| Sunrise on the Salar de Uyuni; looks like AK |
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| No US flag! |
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| Sculpture inside the salt museum. The dark rings are annuli. The salt flat is growing. |
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| Pancake breakfast inside the salt museum |
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| Me and My Shadow |
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| Fun on the salt flats |
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| Getting traditionl Quechuan Trensas (braids) |
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| Showing off my new braids |
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| Dancing on the salar |
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| An attempt at staging a photo walking on Isabel´s braids |
8:30 a.m.: photo fun on the salar
The sun warmed things up a bit and we drove to a more remote spot for photo opportunities. We engaged in all sorts of silliness and even danced along with Isabel. My word of the day is ´trensas´which are braids. Isabel braided my hair in the traditional Quechuan way. I played along. I was disappointed that the natural hexagonal shapes in the salt flats were not visible because it is too early in the season. Photos I have seen are jaw dropping.
10:15 a.m. Salt mounds
We visited the area where salt is mined. They use shovels to pile it in small mounds which have a surreal appearance.
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| Salt mounds |
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| Looks just like the Carribean |
11:00 a.m.: Back to Uyuni to say our goodbyes and eat another yummy lunch.
12:00 a.m.: The road trip back to Tupiza
Since I am southbound, I caught a ride back to Tupiza with the driver, Isabel, and the owner of the company. As part of Fidel´s tip, I bought him an aux cable to plug ipods into his radio. All of the tourists have iPods. Fidel only has 8 songs he played over and over. I played DJ for the 5 hour dusty drive. I mainly played world music, but for the last 45 minutes I gave a US music history lesson beginning with Loius Armstrong. They hated Johnny Cash and John Denver and didnt care for Mrs Robinson. I was about to give up when I tried Jessica and they loved the Allman Brothers. We played it twice!
5:00 pm: Tupiza
I checked into my hostel and checked email. I went to an LP recommended restaurant and ran into 3 people from my pampas tour. I spent the remainder of the evening watching American movies dubbed into Spanish on my cable TV.
Apr 27 Southwest Circuit Day III
5:30 am: wake up
6:00 am: crude breakfast
6:30 am: Departure
7:30 am: Desert de Siloli
We stopped in the Desert de Siloli to visit the locally famous Arbol de piedra (tree of stone). The tree was formed by eolian processes, that is to say, erosion by wind carried sediment. The tree is made of petrified lava with harder, iron-rich materials on top, but the bottom part is made of softer material, ie, biotitic quartz. The rocks in this area all have strange shapes and seem to grow out of the desert dust. Isabel led us in some morning dance to get our blood flowing.
8:30 am: Desert de Siloli
9:15 am: Laguna Onda
This was the first of three lakes. We arrived first in the morning and by the time we left many other jeeps had pulled up. The lake has a stunning backdrop of extinct volcanoes and hosts a variety of waterfowl.
9:00 am: Laguna Chiarkota 4285m
This lake hosts a small number of flamingos.
9:30 a.m.: Laguna Hedionda (foul smelling lagoon) 4250m
The lagoon´s waters are sulphur saturated attracting a large number of fairly docile flamingoes. The flamingos fly from lagoon to lagoon in the region.
11:30 a.m. Our first flat tire, but some nice scenery
12:30 a.m. Vally of the Rocks and lunch
This area is characterized by lots of strange rock formations. It is a popular lunch spot. I solved an easy oulder problem while Isabel set to task preparing our midday feed. I was saddened by the amount of human impact here. It seems that there was toilet paper discarded behind every rock and bush. Don´t people know that it doesnt biodegrade in the desert? Apparently not.
4:00 p.m.: Railroad graveyard
5:00 p.m.: Uyuni
We pulled into the desolate town of Uyuni early. I took a shower but could not get any hot water. It was a real waker upper. I was able to check email on very slow internet. We enjoyed our last dinner as a group with another of Isabes feasts accompanied by some really mediocre red wine. After dinner, Isabel and Basilia (the other cook) joined us for a glass of wine. They confessed to making only 150Bs for the trip which is roughly the equivalent of $6 USD almost. They each have five children and were wearing shabby clothes and whimpy sandals. Isabel also confessed that she didnt have any photos of the trip. Hmm, I had an idea of something to accompany her tip.
6:00 am: crude breakfast
6:30 am: Departure
7:30 am: Desert de Siloli
We stopped in the Desert de Siloli to visit the locally famous Arbol de piedra (tree of stone). The tree was formed by eolian processes, that is to say, erosion by wind carried sediment. The tree is made of petrified lava with harder, iron-rich materials on top, but the bottom part is made of softer material, ie, biotitic quartz. The rocks in this area all have strange shapes and seem to grow out of the desert dust. Isabel led us in some morning dance to get our blood flowing.
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| Arbol de Piedra |
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| Getting the blood flowing in a painted desert |
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| Dancing with Isabel our cook to Boliviano music |
9:15 am: Laguna Onda
This was the first of three lakes. We arrived first in the morning and by the time we left many other jeeps had pulled up. The lake has a stunning backdrop of extinct volcanoes and hosts a variety of waterfowl.
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| Picturesque Laguna Onda |
9:00 am: Laguna Chiarkota 4285m
This lake hosts a small number of flamingos.
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| Laguna Chiarkota |
9:30 a.m.: Laguna Hedionda (foul smelling lagoon) 4250m
The lagoon´s waters are sulphur saturated attracting a large number of fairly docile flamingoes. The flamingos fly from lagoon to lagoon in the region.
12:30 a.m. Vally of the Rocks and lunch
This area is characterized by lots of strange rock formations. It is a popular lunch spot. I solved an easy oulder problem while Isabel set to task preparing our midday feed. I was saddened by the amount of human impact here. It seems that there was toilet paper discarded behind every rock and bush. Don´t people know that it doesnt biodegrade in the desert? Apparently not.
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| I soved a boulder problem, but getting down was tough |
4:00 p.m.: Railroad graveyard
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| Photo fun in the railroad graveyard |
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| An attempt at being artsy with the camera settings |
We pulled into the desolate town of Uyuni early. I took a shower but could not get any hot water. It was a real waker upper. I was able to check email on very slow internet. We enjoyed our last dinner as a group with another of Isabes feasts accompanied by some really mediocre red wine. After dinner, Isabel and Basilia (the other cook) joined us for a glass of wine. They confessed to making only 150Bs for the trip which is roughly the equivalent of $6 USD almost. They each have five children and were wearing shabby clothes and whimpy sandals. Isabel also confessed that she didnt have any photos of the trip. Hmm, I had an idea of something to accompany her tip.
Friday, April 29, 2011
Apr-26 Southwest Circuit day II
5:30 a.m. wake up
6:00 a.m.: crude breakfast
7:00 am: departure
7:30 .m.: ¨wetlands´
Our first stop was in some unidentified ´wetlands´to take some pictures while the sun edged up slowly in the sky.
8:15 a.m.: Laguna Kollp
Laguna Kollpa, our first lake, was interesting. The lake is encrusted with white minerals which are mined to make soap.
9:00 a.m.: Salar de Chalviri
Next, we passed the Salar de Chalviri and took yet more photos. Sensing a theme yet? This was our first salar.
10:45 a.m.: Laguna Verde
We got back in the truck and rushed over to Laguna Verde. Laguna Verde (4350m) is a salt water lagoon with an elevated content of magnesium, arsenic, lead, and calcium carbonate. The constant wind keeps the minerals mixed giving it a brilliant emerald color. Laguna Verde changes color mid-morning; it is this color change that precipitated our early monring departure. The backdrop for this lake is Volcan Licancabur (5800m) which I initially saw from the Chilean side in San Pedro de Atacama.
11:30 a.m.: Desierto de Dalí
Next, we stopped in the Desierto de Dali; word is Salvador Dali got his inspiration from here. There are lots of tiny rock spires poking up surreally through the sand amid marbled mountains of sand and petrified lava. Isabel, our cocinera, loves to dance. So we had an impromptu dance party. I must admit, I was thankful to get my blood flowing after being idle so long.
12:00 ish: Polques Hotsprings
We headed to our lunch spot at Polques Hot Springs which is situated on the shores of another pretty laguna. While we bathed, Isabel prepared our lunch. We had carne de res marinated in lime juice, carrot fritters, rice, potatoes, veg, and fruit. Isabel is quickly becoming my best friend.
2:00 p.m.; Geysers
After lunch, we swung by the fumaroles and geysers. Nothing like a little sulphur inhalant to help digest lunch. Having been to Yellowstone and the geysers in Chile, I didn´t find the geysers and mudpots that appealling.
4:00 pm: hostal #2 and Laguna Colorada
We dropped off Isabel, and headed to Laguna Colorada (colored lake). This was the high point of the trip for me. The lake receives its name from its fiery-reddish colored waters. It is 60km sq and 80 cm deep. The lake has gypsum, magnesium, sodium, and borax; the microscopic flagellate algae give it is color during the hours of 11:00 to 4:00. three species of flamingos frequent the lake. It was so incredible that I couldn´t stop taking pics. I think that I took the highest number of pictures I have ever taken in 90 minutes. I only wished I had a better camera. I fought against wind and dust to keep the lens clean. No photshop used to adjust these colors. It was very hard to pick out which picks to use on the blog.
I crashed hard after anothe of Isabel´s fine creations.
6:00 a.m.: crude breakfast
7:00 am: departure
7:30 .m.: ¨wetlands´
Our first stop was in some unidentified ´wetlands´to take some pictures while the sun edged up slowly in the sky.
Laguna Kollpa, our first lake, was interesting. The lake is encrusted with white minerals which are mined to make soap.
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| Laguna Kollpa |
9:00 a.m.: Salar de Chalviri
Next, we passed the Salar de Chalviri and took yet more photos. Sensing a theme yet? This was our first salar.
 |
| Beautiful palette of colors on the mountains |
10:45 a.m.: Laguna Verde
We got back in the truck and rushed over to Laguna Verde. Laguna Verde (4350m) is a salt water lagoon with an elevated content of magnesium, arsenic, lead, and calcium carbonate. The constant wind keeps the minerals mixed giving it a brilliant emerald color. Laguna Verde changes color mid-morning; it is this color change that precipitated our early monring departure. The backdrop for this lake is Volcan Licancabur (5800m) which I initially saw from the Chilean side in San Pedro de Atacama.
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| Stunning Laguna Verde |
11:30 a.m.: Desierto de Dalí
Next, we stopped in the Desierto de Dali; word is Salvador Dali got his inspiration from here. There are lots of tiny rock spires poking up surreally through the sand amid marbled mountains of sand and petrified lava. Isabel, our cocinera, loves to dance. So we had an impromptu dance party. I must admit, I was thankful to get my blood flowing after being idle so long.
 |
| Desierto de Dali |
12:00 ish: Polques Hotsprings
We headed to our lunch spot at Polques Hot Springs which is situated on the shores of another pretty laguna. While we bathed, Isabel prepared our lunch. We had carne de res marinated in lime juice, carrot fritters, rice, potatoes, veg, and fruit. Isabel is quickly becoming my best friend.
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| Nice spot for a good soak; the hotsprings were right next to this lake |
After lunch, we swung by the fumaroles and geysers. Nothing like a little sulphur inhalant to help digest lunch. Having been to Yellowstone and the geysers in Chile, I didn´t find the geysers and mudpots that appealling.
 |
| Mud pots |
4:00 pm: hostal #2 and Laguna Colorada
We dropped off Isabel, and headed to Laguna Colorada (colored lake). This was the high point of the trip for me. The lake receives its name from its fiery-reddish colored waters. It is 60km sq and 80 cm deep. The lake has gypsum, magnesium, sodium, and borax; the microscopic flagellate algae give it is color during the hours of 11:00 to 4:00. three species of flamingos frequent the lake. It was so incredible that I couldn´t stop taking pics. I think that I took the highest number of pictures I have ever taken in 90 minutes. I only wished I had a better camera. I fought against wind and dust to keep the lens clean. No photshop used to adjust these colors. It was very hard to pick out which picks to use on the blog.
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| Laguna Colorada |
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| Vicuñas next to the lake |
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| A favorite spot for 4300 nesting pairs of flamingoes |
I crashed hard after anothe of Isabel´s fine creations.
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