Dia 7 going backwards

Have you ever had one of those days where nothing seems to workout no matter how hard you try? Today was one of them. That's not to say that I didn't have fun or that a not-so-good day in Bariloche doesn't beat my best day in the office.

Dick and I drove into town with a huge shopping list and we were moderately successful except for buying the wrong lightbulbs. Afterwards we went home to put away groceries, eat lunch and siesta. We went back to town with a large agenda and could not find the items on our list for various reasons after 2 hours. When we returned to the car, the battery was dead. After a quick rescue from gene and $220 for a new battery, we were up and running.

Later we had a mini asado (BBQ). After a couple glasses of vino, we decided it was a good idea to go see the meteor shower and drove away from Bariloche. Despite best efforts again, we were unable to see them. On the plus side, I saw the southern cross for the first time.

Dia 8 Pichi Lefue

As luck would have it, I've been hanging out with two avid fishermen - Dick and Gene. Today they took me with them to fish the Puchi LeFue in the pampas. For those of you in AK who think it's crazy that I would use a rod and reel instead of a big net, don't worry; I went hiking while they fished. It was a beautiful area that reminded me of eastern WA near Yakima. It was hilly, shrub steppe type habitat with really interesting rock formations of all types and colors. I followed game trails thru the prickly brush to avoid stickers. It was actually better than American desert because there are few to no snakes! There was no shade, so despite best efforts, I got a little too much sun. By the end of the day I looked like a British tourist in the African subcontinent because I was wearing a off white long sleeve button down, pants and my dorky sun hat. Galen if youre reading this, I love the glacier shirt!

On the way out, we checked out an Indian cave with hieroglyphics. Also on the drive home there is a lake with flamingos. Esteban invited me over for dinner, which was very nice except I forgot to mention my passion for carne and had a vegetarian dinner. His place overlooks the lake, so there are good views.

Dia 6 Hiking near Colonia Suiza

 This place has a real Vancouver feel to it.

 Esteban on the hike up

 Near refugio; looks like winter in Alaska

 Esteban near Lengua tree

Llao llao fungus.  Pronounced Shao shao.  these are eaten by the local indians.

Text to be updated later

Dias 4-5

On Friday, I flew to Bariloche in a full blown storm.  On the plus side, I met a good friend of Ralph's from Jackson Hole who offered to put me up.  Such good fortune.  I am really lucky to have such a great place to stay, such a nice host, and to be spared the party hostel experience.  It feels so good to be out of the city.  I don't know whether it's the environment or the people here in Bariloche, but it somehow feels less foreign. This area is stunning.  There is pide in Bariloche- houses and gardens are extremely well kept.  Although touristy, this town has a really nice vibe.  I can't wait to get out into the mountains which are still invisible.  I'm in Patagonia at last!

Picture is of a bandelero.

Dia 3

Today I had a rough start.  After waiting in line at Citibank for 30 minutes, they told me that they would only give me change if I was a customer. Then I could not find the Apple store to buy a new protector for the iPhone.  I took the Subte to the Palermo, but it was windy and drizzly.  I wasn't really up for exploring, so I walked all the way back to Recoleta along the parks.  I stopped at the Museum of Modern Art and saw a really bizarre exhibit by Marta Munin (sp?).  Near the museum is the floralis generalis (see pic); it's a neat public art installation and the petals close up at night. I also went to one of the Lonely Planet recommended restaurants for a late lunch and ended up sitting with an American.  It felt good to speak English and not work so hard to communicate.  The empanadas were awesome.  I spent the remainder of the afternoon in the plaza reading once the weather cleared.  In the evening, I went downtown with a dutch guy, Nils, who was staying in the hostel across the street.  We went to a very disappointing touristy parilla.  The only good part was that it was also a tango museum of sorts.

At dinner I learned that there is such a thing as pork t-bone.  Guess I will have to wait another day to try real argentine steak.

Dia 2

Today I awoke groggy.  It took me a long time to get on step.  I took the "Subte" to San Telmo and walked around the cobble streets of this old section of Buenos Aires.  There were lots of art galleries and artists selling their wares in the plaza.  Feeling overwhelmed by the heat and the city, I made my way back to the Plaza in Recoleta where I find the large open green spaces calming.  I originally intended to go to an art museum to escape the heat, but it was closed.  Evidently, this is some big christian holiday.  The plaza had a large feria artesenal that I wandered through.  It was so hard not to buy anything.  I am now coming to terms with the fact that I have a leather fetish.  I love the handmade purses, belts, and shoes.

I spent the remainder of the afternoon watching street performers in the shade- capoiera, tango. 

Dia 1: Buenos Aires

After a sleepless redeye owing to turbulence and screaming babies, I arrived in Buenos Aires. My cab driver practiced Spanish with me politely and patiently during the 45 minute drive to the hostel. Háče mucho calor aqui! Even with a brief stop in south Florida to acclimatize, I had difficulty tolerating the heat. I spent most of the day in a sleep-deprived, foreign city induced state of confusion. Nonetheless, I managed to see some of the sites.

The Recoleta cemetery was amazing (first attempt as using a superlative)and much much more than I expected. There was a Menora (see pic) in the plaza erected by Jabad (note the spelling). I walked the 16 blocks back there at dusk to see if they would have a candle lighting ceremony, but I thing the lights are on a timer. The plaza itself was welcome respite from the bustle of the city and I enjoyed it both times.

In the early afternoon I attempted the subway. It costs 1,10 pesos or about 0.35 cents. I somehow ended up in the business district during rush hour and enjoyed watching lots of people in suits scurrying. In my wanderings I somehow ended up on calle Florida which is extremely touristy and very busy pedestrian access street with lots of street vendors selling scarves, sandals, belts and other assorted things. I now know where I will be buying presents on my return voyage.

I had a great dinner at Cumana which was recommended by SaraEllen and Lonely Planet. For apps, dinner, and wine it cost about $15. Maybe I should move here so I never have to cook again.